Patternmaking + Design: Collars & Closures
Suzy Furrer
Class Preview
- In-depth Instruction; over 230 mins
- On-demand video access anytime
- Bonus downloadable PDF resources
- Access to class Q&A
Introduction & Drafting Button Plackets
41:01
Meet your instructor, designer and author Suzy Furrer, learn more about the collars and techniques covered in your class, then dive right into designing traditional and hidden button plackets on your bodice sloper. Your placket measurements will later be incorporated into many of your collar designs.
Camp Collar & Peter Pan Collar
27:12
The camp collar (or Hawaiian collar) is one of the easiest collars to design and sew. Suzy walks you through the drafting process, then shows you how to draft a flat-falling Peter Pan collar. Suzy also discusses tips for interfacing collars.
Band Collar & Collar With Band
32:23
Suzy shows how to draft a band collar (also known as a Mandarin or Nehru collar) in two pieces, with shaping around the neck. Then build on your skills as you draft a collar with band. Learn where you should add interfacing and how to adjust for turn of cloth on your collar.
Shawl & Partial Roll Collars
38:24
Learn how to draft a faced V-neck on your bodice sloper, to which you can attach a shawl collar or partial roll collar. Suzy shows you how to draft both, including how make insertions on your collar drafts to make sure they are wide enough to cover the back seam.
Napoleon Collar
23:58
The heavier Napoleon collar is perfect for jackets and trench coats. Suzy walks you through the drafting of the lapels and oversized collar and discusses design variations you can play with.
Notched Collar
31:17
Suzy demonstrates how to draft the tricky notched collar. Like the Napoleon collar, it is most suitable for jackets and coats. If you follow along with your own bodice sloper, you'll see how to turn some simple calculations into complete pattern pieces.
Roll Collar
35:30
Draft a full roll collar on a V-neck bodice. This collar looks like a shawl collar but is constructed more like a lapel, with a facing that rolls back. Suzy takes you through the drafting step by step and shares tips on how to choose your grain line so the front of your garment hangs smoothly. Finally, learn about all the components of a production pattern you'll want to add to your own work if you are planning to design commercially.
Description
Outfit your blouses, dresses, jackets and coats with custom collars alongside Apparel Arts founder Suzy Furrer. Learn to draft both standard and hidden button plackets before moving on to collars. Design quick and easy camp collars, classic Peter Pan collars for a vintage look, trendy band collars (also known as Mandarin or Nehru collars), and dress-shirt-style collars with bands. Draft shawl collars interfaced with hair canvas for a smooth roll line, custom-shaped partial-roll collars and one-piece patterns for full-roll collars. Finish your coat or jacket designs in professional fashion with glamorous Napoleon collars and chic notched collars. You’ll also learn about marking for production-ready patterns. Draft collars and closures like a fashion designer.
Suzy Furrer
Suzy Furrer has over 35 years’ experience in the fashion industry. She began her career as a freelance patternmaker and directed the development of capsule collections for small fashion companies. Suzy is the Founder and Director of Apparel Arts (established 1996) and Apparel Arts Productions (www.ApparelArtsProductions.com), an online fashion design school established in 2020. Suzy developed a comprehensive curriculum to give students in-depth training to be strong candidates to enter the workforce in apparel or costume design or to simply build strong sewing and drafting skills for one's own personal use. Apparel Arts has graduated hundreds of students who currently work in the apparel or costuming industries. In addition, she has been an instructor for GAP Inc.’s Product Development Immersion Program. Suzy teaches and speaks at sewing and craft conferences, sewing guilds, and art schools and has taught classes for the employees of entertainment giants Pixar and Lucas Films. She is the author of Building Patterns, The Architecture of Women’s Clothing. Last, but not least, Suzy has taught online pattern drafting classes for Craftsy.com since 2011.
Bonus materials available after purchase